Palawan is a long thin province, almost 400 miles in length on the west coast of the Philippines. That’s a long way by car: El Nido is at the southern end of the island and to get to Coron you have to take a van for five hours, and it’s an island in its own right. Plan by the hub, not by the island.
El Nido
Island Hopping Tours
At least four different routes are available on a daily basis from the beach. Tour A is on the Big Lagoons, Small Lagoon and Secret Lagoon; Tour C is to get to Hidden Beach, Matinloc Shrine and better coral. There are now individual time slots and permits for Lagoon entries, so come early.
The Beaches Outside Town
El Nido’s town beach is a working beach, not a beautiful beach. The one people boast about is Nacpan, a mile of golden sand 45 minutes north. On the other side, at Duli, the surf is from November to March. The sunset is at Las Cabanas, which is a walking distance from town.
Taraw Cliff
A steep rocky ridge, just above town. The guided canopy walk provides the view without the technical scrambling, the actual summit route is really on point and a guide is necessary.
Coron
Wreck Diving
In 1944 over a dozen Japanese naval ships were sunk here. There are a few that are shallow enough for the advanced snorkel, and the Irako and Okikawa Maru are serious dives. It is one of the best wreck sites in Asia – Coron.
Lakes and Lagoons
The postcard picture of Palawan is Kayangan Lake, which is reached by a brief walk up hill. Barracuda Lake has a bizarre thermocline, a big break in water temperature within the dive. Twin Lagoon can be reached at low tide through a gap under a rock wall.
Land Options
After 700 steps you will enjoy the panorama of the sunset on Mount Tapyas. Maquinit Hot Springs, saltwater and volcanically heated, is suitable for use after.
Port Barton and San Vicente
The peaceful centre of the island. No night life, power limited, great snorkelling and turtles at local reefs, in a small beach village, Port Barton. San Vicente’s Long Beach is about nine miles in length and is almost deserted.
Puerto Princesa
The capital is only used for an airport by most travellers. Allow one day for the Underground River, a UNESCO-listed underground river that can be traveled by paddle boat, and the firefly viewing tour at night at Iwahig. Underground River permits are first come, first served and are limited to a daily quota.
Going Further
Balabac
Sandbars and pink colored beaches at the far south end. Access is difficult, requiring a long journey (and a boat, too) and organised multi-day tours are the reality.
Tubbataha Reefs
An exclusive UNESCO marine park just accessible by liveaboard (and only in a limited period of time between March and June). Widely considered the finest diving in the country.
Practical Notes
Getting Around
Weather permitting, it takes approximately four hours to ferry from El Nido to Coron. The time taken between El Nido and Puerto Princesa by vans is 5 to 6 hours. There is an airport at Busuanga which is in Coron.
When to Go
The dry season is from November through May. There is rain and boat trips are canceled from June to October, but prices will decline.
Money and Fees
Carry cash. There aren’t enough ATMs and lots of resorts and tour operators don’t accept cards. You will likely be charged environmental fees, terminal fees, and per-lagoon permits at almost every stop — plan to spend $30-$50 per week on these.
How Long
Seven nights minimum in El Nido and Coron including the extra day in case the weather on the ferries is bad. If you’re looking for Port Barton add 3 more.
The optimal number of hubs is 2. Adding a third will mean that most of your trip takes place in a van.