Cebu is the second aviation hub of the Philippines, and it also serves as the gateway to the Visayas, home to the majority of trips to the Philippines’ islands. It’s also a long narrow island that has a very distinct north, south, and a super busy 500-year-old city in the middle, with thresher sharks up north and quiet beaches down south, and a reef wall and waterfalls down south.
Cebu City
Founded by the Spanish in 1565, the oldest city in the Philippines. Magellan’s Cross is located in a small pavilion next to the Basilica del Santo Niño where the country’s oldest religious icon is kept. A half day is enough to explore Fort San Pedro and the Taoist Temple.
Take a walk up to Tops Lookout or the marble Temple of Leah for views – it’s best at sunset, when the lights turn on in the city below.
Mactan and the Nearby Islands
The airport and the bulk of the resort strip is in Mactan. The shallow-reef snorkelling in the marine sanctuaries of Island-hopping boats to Hilutungan and Nalusuan, and the bird sanctuary at Olango Island which attracts migratory birds from September to April.
The South
Moalboal
Millions of sardines can be seen swirling in a dynamic wall just offshore from Panagsama Beach. The same area is grazed by sea turtles. A short boat ride out is Pescador Island with walls and drop-offs for the divers.
Kawasan Falls and Canyoneering
The turquoise is located at the end of a canyoneering trail of jumping, swimming and scrambling down the gorge near Badian. Use authorized operators and tell the truth about your swimming skills.
Osmeña Peak
The highest elevation in Cebu, about 1,000 metres, is dotted with jagged hills extending in all directions. It’s one of the easiest big views in the country; it’s a 30-minute walk from the drop-off point.
A Note on Oslob
The whale shark interaction at Oslob is based on the daily feeding of the whale sharks, and its impact on the behavior and migration of the sharks has been singled out for criticism by conservation groups. There are other alternatives which are wild encounters at Donsol or Southern Leyte.
The North
Malapascua
Thresher sharks come to Monad Shoal at dawn to be cleaned – it is the best place on earth for them. Dives will depart approximately 5am. The island is tiny, sandy and very slow.
Bantayan Island
Powder-white sand at Santa Fe, no divetourist crowds and a pretty good argument for doing nothing for three days. Accessible by bus to Hagnaya and a ferry.
What to Eat
No sauce is required for Cebu lechon, which is the benchmark. Have it at the Carcar village restaurant or a city roastery. Eat puso (steamed rice in woven coconut leaves) and grilled skewers at Larsian. It’s normal to take dried mangoes as a memento.
Travel Tips
Getting Around
The journey from the South Bus Terminal to Moalboal and Oslob takes a few hours (3 to 4). Private vans are more expensive but they’re saving real time. Ride-hailing is allowed in the city, and taxis should be metered.
When to Go
The dry season is from January to May. Every January, the city is filled with street dancing and sold out housing, book months ahead or stay out of the dates.
How Long to Stay
Five days = city and south. Include 3 for Malapascua and Bantayan. For another island, Cebu is also easily reached by ferry to Bohol or Negros.
Practicalities
Bring money out of town, be prepared to pay environmental fees at most attractions and pack reef-safe sunblock.
Situate yourself to the south and/or north, not both. The trip from one to the other costs more of the day than is indicated on the map.