Bali is one island, but it’s 4 or 5. The rhythm of the surf towns in the south, of the artistic middle, of the volcanic north, of the quiet east, is different. The base you select here is more important than anywhere else!
Where to Base Yourself
Canggu and Seminyak
Co-working coffee shops, black sand surf breaks, beach clubs and heavy traffic on the southwest coast. Canggu is youthful and active, Seminyak is more polished and ideal for restaurants.
Ubud
Inland, between rice fields and the river gorges. Easy access to waterfalls and temple dance in central Bali, yoga studios, and craft markets. The traffic in the centre is poor – keep a few kilometres away.
Uluwatu and the Bukit
The world class limestone cliffs and two best beaches, Padang Padang and Bingin. Less noisy at night and further away from things.
Sidemen and Amed
The opposite of south is east and the antidote to the south. Rice-terrace valleys are available at sidemen, and there’s virtually no one there; Amed provides black-sand coves and excellent shore diving.
Best Things to Do
Enjoy sunset with a view of a cliff at Cliff Temple.
Uluwatu Temple is located above the sea and the Kecak fire dance takes place at dusk. The other classic is Tanah Lot, situate on a rock off the coast, which fills up early.
Climb Mount Batur
Sunrise over an active volcano, Lake Batur from the pre-dawn position on the rim of the crater. Two hours hike, moderately steep, and guides are required.
Chase Real Waterfalls
Turn off the main road 10 minutes later. There are more effortless and less noisy spots at the north, such as Sekumpul; and Tukad Cepung and Tibumana, both near Ubud.
Dive the Liberty Wreck
Accessible from the beach is a WWII cargo ship that is in shallow water off the coast of Tulamben. The dive is one of the easiest anywhere and is suitable for snorkellers also.
The Jatiluwih Rice Terraces are a must-see in Bali.
Much less posed than the Instagram terraces around Ubud and a bit bigger and more old-fashioned. A part of the UNESCO-listed subak irrigation system, still run by farming cooperatives in Bali.
Places Worth the Drive
A sacred spring temple where the Balinese do purification rituals, called Tirta Empul.
The temple in the lake side of the site of Ulun Danu Beratan in the cold highlands near Bedugul.
Munduk: Mountain villages, coffee plantations and true quiet.
40 minutes away by boat is the dramatic cliffs and manta rays of Nusa Penida.
Travel Tips
Getting Around
No useful public transport is available. Scooters have a daily charge of about $5 but you’ll likely have to have a licence you don’t and crashes happen all the time. Private drivers charge about $40 – $50 per day and are safer.
Temple Etiquette
A sarong and sash are required at temples, and usually available to borrow at the entrance. Do not stand in front of a person while praying and refrain from entering the temple if you are menstruating or bleeding, according to the local custom.
Money and Costs
Always use ATMs that are part of a bank, as there are ATMs that are not associated with a bank and have a history of skimming. The Bali Arrival Levy is also charged for foreign visitors, and can be paid online before arrival (check the current amount and how to process it before you travel to Bali).
Health
Bali belly is a common occurrence. Use bottled or filtered water; only accept ice from trusted locations; and bring rehydration salts with you.
Timing
Dry season is from April to October and is at its peak in July, August and around New Year. The shoulder months are May, June and September, when the weather is good and the numbers of people are lower.
Provide at least two bases for Bali. One island, one side of the coast, one inland, and the traffic doesn’t seem like a traffic jam.