The Eje Cafetero is located in the regions of Quindío, Risaralda and Caldas, and ranges from approximately 1200 to 1900 metres, where the Arabica produces its finest coffee. In 2011, UNESCO designated the Coffee Cultural Landscape in the name of the entire coffee production chain on steep green hills. It is the easiest area in Colombia to experience a slow pace.
The Towns
Salento
It was the most visited and the most photographed with brightly painted balconies along Calle Real and Willys jeeps lined up in the plaza. It is very active during the weekend and inactive by Tuesday. The base for Cocora.
Filandia
In twenty minutes, a lot calmer and a very colourful centre, and a wooden viewpoint tower overlooking the surrounding valleys. Where travellers spend their stay is increasingly increasing.
Jardín
The prettiest town square, wooden chairs around the trees, a neo-Gothic basilica and a cable car above the valley make it the loveliest town square in the region — technically in Antioquia. Close by, a waterfall cascades through a cave at the Cueva del Esplendor.
Manizales
The city in the region, on a ridge, and the entrance to the hot springs and the high volcanic region.
Coffee Tour of a Coffee Farm.
What a Tour Covers
A typical finca tour lasts 2-3 hours and covers the entire process from nursery, to picking, depulping, fermenting, drying on patios or raised beds, roasting and cupping. You will use a basket to pick with, and soon find out why only red cherries come off.
Which Farms
Half day English tours are available at the Fincas around Salento. In the surrounding area of Manizales, bigger haciendas offer combined tours and accommodation. If you’re a true coffee connoisseur, then the specialist estates of Buenavista are for you.
Harvest Timing
The principal crop is from September to December; and the smaller one (called mitaca) in April and May. Tours are offered throughout the year, but when visiting during harvest time the farm is truly at work.
The Cocora Valley
The tallest palm species on earth, up to 60 metres wax palms, are scattered across open green ridges, which is an interesting site to see. This total trip lasts about 5 hours, traverses cloud forests, river crossings on suspension bridges and steep ascent to palm ridge. Walk anti clockwise to leave the best views as your last. Entry arrangements and access points have altered in recent years – please check locally before travelling.
Beyond Coffee
Los Nevados National Park has volcanic summits with glaciers above the city of Manizales. Nevado del Ruiz has raised alert periods that allow access to be closed – refer to the current status before planning access. There are easy afternoon thermal springs at Santa Rosa and San Vicente. The bird watching here is world class and there are reserves at Río Blanco and Otún Quimbaya. The national sport is called and tejo and is a game in which metal discs are thrown at gunpowder charges, typically performed with beer.
Practical Notes
Getting There
Take a flight to Pereira, Armenia or Manizales, both less than an hour from the capital of Colombia, Bogotá. The towns are linked by jeeps and minibuses which run at low cost.
Weather
There’s no true dry season. The driest months are December to February and July to August, but rain occurs most afternoons throughout the year. Pack waterproofs and layers, as evenings get cold at altitude.
How Long
4 days is a visit to 2 towns, a farm tour and Cocora. With a week you can add Jardín or thermal springs without a rush.
It is because of the coffee that you come here. That’s because of the green hills people linger.