How to visit Ushuaia, Argentina

It’s so far south and feels so remote that this area is nicknamed ‘the end of the world’. It truly felt different from anywhere else I’d visited before.

Ushuaia isn’t particularly big, but it is big by Patagonian standards for sure. Its relative size and position on the Beagle Channel, with a natural deep water port, means that it’s one of the most popular landing points for expeditions to Antarctica. If you’re planning a trip to Antarctica, there’s a good chance you’ll pass through here.

Even if you aren’t planning to go to Antarctica, Ushuaia is well worth the visit: to say you’ve been to the world’s southernmost city, if nothing else. But there is a lot more to see.

How to get there

Given its location right on the southern tip of South America, you’d think it would be difficult to reach Ushuaia. However, that isn’t the case. It’s surprisingly easy to get to this city.

By plane

The easiest and most stress free way to get to Ushuaia is to fly. There are multiple flights to Ushuaia from cities across Argentina, including Buenos Aires, El Calafate, Trelew and Cordoba. You can get these for less than $100 – just make sure to book a couple of weeks in advance for the best fares!

Flights from Buenos Aires take around 3.5 hours and are very scenic. A window seat is a must so you can take in the beautiful scenery if the skies are clear.

Meanwhile, flights from El Calafate take around 1.5 hours and are a good option for people on a grand tour of Argentina.

I wouldn’t recommend flying to Ushuaia from any cities in Chile. It works out expensive as you’ll most likely have to fly to a different city in Argentina first, doubling the flights and most likely price!

By bus

Another option is to take the bus to Ushuaia. This is the best option for if you’re taking a longer trip through Patagonia and might be visiting the Chilean side of Patagonia as well.

The closest major destination to Ushuaia is Punta Arenas, the largest city in Patagonia. For any travel into Chile, you’ll most likely have to make this bus journey. It takes around 11 hours and runs only 3 or so times per week at 8 am, so will take up quite a bit of your day. Plus, the bus, at around $50, is also quite expensive. However, on the upside, the bus route is gorgeous and follows the sea for much of the journey, with a ferry ride included!

Make sure to book your bus between Ushuaia and Punta Arenas well in advance. Particularly in the peak season of summer, these buses sell out weeks in advance. Given how limited their capacity is, you need to get in there early!

The buses are comfortable, with good seating and other facilities like a toilet and phone charging. We were also given a complimentary packed lunch (ham sandwich and alfajores, shortbread biscuits stuck together with dulce de leche and covered in chocolate) which was appreciated.

It’s also possible to take the bus within Argentina, from smaller settlements in this region in Patagonia or from further afield. We even met one poor chap who was taking the bus to Puerto Madryn, on the way back to Buenos Aires! It’s a long journey certainly not for the faint hearted.

How to get around

Ushuaia has public buses and taxis, so you can get around fairly easily. It’s a small city which is easily walkable. However, if you’re looking to go to settlements further afield there’s the odd public bus which can help to get you there. There are also plentiful taxis.

For people looking to visit tourist sights such as the Tierra del Fuego National Park or Laguna Esmerada, there are tourist shuttle buses. These are on the expensive side and if you’re in a group it may actually work out cheaper to take a taxi. However, for many people the shuttle buses are a great option. We took them and found them to work well. Just head to the bus terminal to book them.

For exploring areas off the beaten track, renting a car is very handy. With being under 25, we found car hire costs to be much too high for us to consider. However, taking a car will give you much more autonomy and could work out economical for a larger group.

How does Ushuaia rate as a destination?

As part of this blog, I give every place I visit a rating so that we can easily compare destinations and decide whether they’re worth a visit – those are the scores you see at the top of the page!

This is how Ushuaia rated:

• Accessibility: 4/5 – nowhere in Patagonia is easy to get to. However, Ushuaia is probably one of the most accessible Patagonian destinations, with regular flights from other Argentinian cities taking you to its doorstep. Many of the activities here would not be possible for people with limited mobility, but there remains more options than in other areas of Patagonia as well.
• Safety: 5/5 – I felt completely safe in Ushuaia.
• Enjoyment: 5/5 – I loved Ushuaia! There’s so much to do and see.
• Value: 4/5 – given the blue dollar rate, Argentina as a whole is surprisingly affordable for international tourists. Whilst prices are generally higher in Patagonia, value for money was greater here than across the border in Chile.

Overall score: 4.5/5

If you’ve already visited, let me know if you agree with these ratings! Just to note, the ratings are my personal opinion based on my visit, so you might have a completely different experience.

More: how I rank destinations using the Everywhere Ratings system

What to do in Ushuaia

Ushuaia is perfectly located at the bottom of Patagonia for anyone hoping to explore the local area. There’s a lot of things to see!

Here are my top suggestions for spending some time in Ushuaia. These are all best done in summer (with the exception of skiing):

1. Penguin watching at Isla Martillo

If you’ve ever wanted to see penguins in the wild, this area of Patagonia has you covered. There are several places you can spot penguins!

The best option for seeing penguins from Ushuaia is Isla Martillo, an island in the Beagle Channel home to three types of penguins (Magellanic, Gentoo and King). Many boat trips in the area will take you there to get a closer look, and it’s amazing to see them resting, feeding and swimming in the water.

To visit Isla Martillo, you’ve got several options. You can either take a longer day cruise on a large boat, where you’ll get to spend the whole day on the Beagle Channel. Or you can drive to Puerto Almanza and take a small boat from there.

We chose the latter option as the small boats can get very close to the island and will literally crash against the shore, getting you within a couple of metres of the island and the penguins on it. However, if you’re wanting to explore the Beagle Channel further and don’t have enough time or resources for separate trips, the larger boats are a great option.

There’s also one tour company (Piratour) who can take groups onto Isla Martillo itself. Whilst we thought this sounded cool, it works out twice as expensive as the other boat trips, and we didn’t find their sales reps to be very friendly. Ultimately, we decided it wasn’t worth it.

2. Cruising along the Beagle Channel

The Beagle Channel – the channel separating Isla Grande, where Ushuaia is located, from the smaller islands to the south – is pretty gorgeous; there’s no other way about it. The mountains rising above make for a magnificent backdrop.

One way many people choose to experience this is via a boat trip. Any cruise to Antarctica will begin by crossing the Beagle Channel. However, shorter trips, from a couple of hours to a day on the water, are easy to organise from Ushuaia.

On longer trips you’ll have the option to visit a couple of islands in the channel too, such as Isla del los Lobos (Sea Lion Island). You might also get to see animals like seals or penguins; who knows?

3. Visit a glacial lagoon and glacier

The area surrounding Ushuaia is full of mountains with glaciers. Beneath many of the glaciers you’ll find lagoons filled with the prettiest blue water owed to the glacial sediments within them.

It’s well worth visiting one of them whilst you’re in Ushuaia. The most popular lagoon is Laguna Esmeralda, which we visited and is around one to two hours’ walk from the road, making it accessible for most fit people. It was stunning and was one of our highlights of our entire trip to South America!

You’ll find many more lagoons and lakes, such as Laguna Turquesa and Lago Escondido, which can fit a range of difficulties and accessibility but will offer more isolated and less crowded views in return.

4. Visit the Martial Glacier

Above Ushuaia sits a smallish glacier, the Martial Glacier. For glacier enthusiasts, the Martial Glacier is pretty small and not that impressive – however, as the first glacier I visited, I really liked seeing it and it holds a special place in my heart!

The walk up is also very gorgeous, as you walk up a ski slope, through a forest area and then up glacial scree. It’s a difficult walk with a permanent incline. There’s a lot of uneven ground, so take care with your footing.

At the top, you’ll reach the foot of the Martial Glacier. At this point you can see Ushuaia down beneath you, with the Beagle Channel and Isla Navarino beyond. On our visit we were even treated to a rainbow!

The walk, being only around an hour each way, is also perfect for a spare afternoon or early evening walk.

5. Go for a hike in the Tierra del Fuego National Park

For many people, a visit to the Tierra del Fuego National Park tops the things to do in Ushuaia. The national park is only 12 km outside Ushuaia and is home to a range of biomes and landscapes, with forest, coastal and riverine environments all present.

Compared to other walking things in the area, a hike through Tierra del Fuego works out a bit more expensive as there’s a fairly steep entrance fee. (In January, we paid 5,500 pesos, equivalent to $30 / £26 at the time, but given hyperinflation in Argentina it’s likely to have increased since.) However, if you’re happy to wild camp, there are several places you can do this in the park to extend your stay for a couple of days.

Tierra del Fuego National Park is also home to the Fin del Mundo (End of the World) Post Office. If you bring your passport you can pay for them to stamp it for you, or alternatively send a postcard from here back home!

Some tourists also choose to take the Fin del Mundo train, a former prisoner train running into the national park. We thought it looked fun but a bit too expensive and touristy for us.

6. Visit Estancia Harberton

Some people visiting the region choose to go to Estancia Harberton, one of the oldest ranches in Tierra del Fuego.

I’ve heard that visiting a cattle ranch is a key part of any trip to Patagonia, so if you’re wanting to experience a bit of traditional life in the region, Estancia Harberton would fit the bill. You can take tours around the ranch, visit their museum, eat at their restaurant and even stay the night. They also own Isla Martillo.

I wasn’t too fussed about visiting a ranch whilst we were in Ushuaia, given there is so much else to do. However, you’ll see some day tours and boat trips around Tierra del Fuego stopping there.

7. Head to the ski slopes

If you visit in winter, a lot of the activities around Ushuaia will be much harder. However, you’ll be able to ski!

The most well known option is to go skiing at Cerro Castor, staying in town and heading there everyday. I’m not a skier so I don’t know how skiing at the End of the World compares to other regions, but it’s definitely something to check out.

Organising day trips from Ushuaia

It’s easy to organise boat trips, shuttle buses and anything else you might need in Ushuaia. Just head down to the tourist port, and you’ll find a village of huts operated by tour companies there. All the major tour companies have a presence here and they’re where many of the tours and boat trips begin.

Just pop into whichever operator takes your fancy. I’d recommend having a look online to see what each of them offers, as if you’re anything like me it’s easy to lose the plot during the sales pitch! You can then reserve your space and pay for the excursion. In person, you can also pay with cash and therefore take full advantage of the blue dollar rate.

Right by the tourist port, you’ll be able to spot the Tourist Information Centre on the other side of the road. The staff there were super helpful for us when planning our days out. They have brochures and information on where to go and how to get there. It’s a great stop if you’re unsure of where to stop!

Head further west along the road and you will reach the bus terminal. This is where the tourist shuttle buses leave from. You’ll see a hut from which you can make reservations. Just to note, multiple shuttle bus companies operate from the same premises, so make a note of who you’re booking with to avoid confusion.

When should you visit?

Like most of Patagonia, Ushuaia is most accessible in summer. During those months, days are longer and temperatures are higher. You therefore won’t have to worry about ice picks and other specialist equipment whilst undertaking many of the activities in the area.

I’d therefore recommend visiting between November and March. It’s entirely possible to visit outside this time but be prepared for your plans to change depending on the weather, and for some hikes to not be accessible.

Of course, Ushuaia is also a destination for skiers and if you’re interested in this, the winter is the best time to visit. It’ll just be a very different trip!

How long should you stay in Ushuaia?

The main activities – cruising the Beagle Channel and going on a couple of hikes – can be completed over a couple of days.

However, Ushuaia is so far away from anything else that you may as well spend longer, to justify the travel times. We spent four days in the area without running out of things to do!

Additionally, given its location in Argentina, with the blue dollar rate available, it’s more affordable than Chilean Patagonia. Therefore, Ushuaia may appeal as a base for budget-savvy backpackers exploring Tierra del Fuego.

I’d suggest four or five nights, longer if you enjoy hiking, to fully experience the area.

Where to stay

As an international tourist destination and a gateway to Antarctica, Ushuaia has a range of accommodation options. From luxury hotels down to basic hostels, there is something to suit all budgets.

We stayed at Cruz del Sur. We weren’t keen on a lot of aspects of the hostel – small kitchen, cramped rooms, dirty bedding – but it was a cosy place to come back to after our days out hiking, they have a dog, and the owners were friendly. Plus, they have free medialunas (sticky Argentinian croissants) for breakfast!

Make sure to pay with cash if you can as it’ll significantly reduce accommodation, transport and other costs.

Where to eat

To be honest, food in Ushuaia is quite expensive. Like much of Patagonia, high import costs drive the price up for everyone.

If you’re on a budget like we were, I’d suggest buying groceries and cooking your own meals. There are several supermarkets in the city centre to make use of, and many hostels in the area have a communal kitchen.

We had a good meal at Casimiro, a parrilla (grillhouse) close to the tourist port. You’ll find restaurant prices to be much higher in Ushuaia compared to the north of Argentina, but not too bad if you’re paying with foreign currency! Make sure to try Patagonian lamb, spit roasted lamb and Patagonia’s most well-known dish.

Tips

If you’re planning a trip to Ushuaia, here are my top tips for your visit:

1. Make use of Western Union before you travel. If you exchange dollars or other currencies to Argentine pesos at Western Union (or a cueva) once you’re in the country, you can get a great blue dollar rate, making travel around the area significantly more affordable.
2. Stock up on cash before you arrive. There’s only a couple of Western Union branches in Ushuaia, and whilst we did manage to get cash, this took us most of a day to sort out (which isn’t great if you only have a few days in the area). Bring it with you from Buenos Aires!
3. Compare taxi vs shuttle bus prices. The tourist shuttles can work out more expensive than just hiring a taxi in bigger groups, so check out both prices before you buy.

Conclusion

Ushuaia is a gorgeous city. It’s the perfect place to use as a base for the Tierra del Fuego province, but is also worth a visit in itself. Head there and you’ll find penguins, glaciers, hiking routes and boat trips, among others.

I adored Ushuaia during my visit and would wholeheartedly recommend you make the journey there too!

Do you have any questions about Ushuaia? Let me know in the comments!

More information

• Man Vs Globe’s article on backpacking Ushuaia is super informative and useful.
• Check out Career Gappers’ article on things to do in Ushuaia for some inspiration.