Touring uphill Lincoln: millennia of history to explore

Uphill Lincoln holds so many memories for me. I’ve always loved visiting and learning more about this area of the city.

After my last visit, I couldn’t resist putting this blog post together, to tell you more about this part of Lincoln and all about what makes it special to me. I hope it inspires you to visit one day!

A short introduction to uphill Lincoln

Lincoln is a city in the East Midlands. It’s pretty hilly, with half of the town being much lower than the other.

The centre of uphill Lincoln is formally called the Cathedral Quarter, which makes it sound super grand – although it is grand, so the name is nothing if not appropriate. This area is home to both Lincoln Cathedral and Lincoln Castle, as well as all the old buildings in between.

A short history of uphill Lincoln

The Cathedral Quarter is one of the oldest parts of Lincoln, and that’s pretty clear when walking around, from the architecture and occasional ruin.

It has its roots back in Roman England, back when the city was known as Lindum Colonia. Since then, Lincoln has been under constant occupation.

It was during the Norman period that the landmarks the city is known for took shape. Lincoln Castle began its life in 1068 and has stood around ever since. Meanwhile, the Cathedral has gone through several iterations, with the current building dating back to 1192.

My connection to Bailgate

I feel personally connected to Bailgate – one of the streets in the Cathedral Quarter – in particular because of my family. This article wouldn’t be complete without talking about this at least a little.

My granddad ran a grocer’s shop in the Bailgate from the fifties to the nineties. It was in the flat above the shop that my mum lived for the first few years of her life, before the family moved a few miles away, and it’s in that shop that she worked during her teenage years. Not far away, my grandma had a card shop too.

When my mum was older, she worked at the White Hart as a receptionist and waitressed for events at the Masonry Hall, both of which you can still visit.

Even when my parents moved across to Cheshire and had me, it’s not like the story with Bailgate ended. I’ve visited Lincoln all my life for family events. As a kid I didn’t spend too much time in the centre, visiting my grandparents, aunts and uncles and cousins elsewhere in the city. But even then we made it in for events like the Christmas Market, friends’ birthday parties and celebrations.

As an adult, I appreciate my moments spent in the area more than ever!

Entering Bailgate

If you’re entering the Cathedral Quarter by car, most likely you will come from Newport, passing onto the Bailgate by the BBC Lincs headquarters. This is the main one-way ferryway through the area, which is largely pedestrianised to tourists’ relief.

The first thing you’ll see is Newport Arch, a stone arch passing over the road. Built around 200 AD, this arch is a remnant of the Roman wall that used to surround the city (albeit no more) and used to be the gateway to the north of the city. It’s notable for being one of the last remaining Roman archways in Britain beneath which traffic can still pass.

If you drive through, I’d also recommend heading back around once you’re parked up. There’s a pedestrian way on one side which is like a tunnel, and for whatever reason I find walking through this bit of the arch so exciting…

Roman ruins and independent shops

Continuing further past Newport Arch, you’ll find a pretty cobblestone street lined with terraced houses and independent shops and cafes. There aren’t many chains in Bailgate, and for that I’m glad – it would damage the atmosphere and detract from the beauty of the buildings.

Most of the buildings down the initial Bailgate stretch are from the 17th to 19th centuries; they just ooze with character. For me, I always take a sneaky look at where my granddad’s shop was (now two houses) and reminisce about those past times.

Keep an eye out for the brick roundels on the pathway as you walk down the road. These mark the position of the forum back in Lindum Colonia, where there would have been columns holding up the colonnade.

Another landmark is the Roman well, which you’d pass on your right hand side. It’s now housed beneath some very foggy glass so seeing more than a few metres in is a challenge, but it’s still worth attempting a look.

By the way, there are several other Roman ruins which you can see in Bailgate, many of which I’ve passed without knowing until writing this article. Check them out here!

Castle Hill

At the end of Bailgate, you’ll find a wide square known as Castle Hill. At this junction there’s a lot of stuff to see. On your left there’s the cathedral; straight on you’ll find Steep Hill. To the right there’s one of the entrances to the castle.

Turning left, you’ll see the Exchequer Gate, a 14th century monument which acts as an entrance to the cathedral. Walking through it, the view of the cathedral opens up in its spectacular glory.

Lincoln Cathedral

Lincoln Cathedral is a pretty spectacular building, and once you’ve seen it, it sets a high standard for other British cathedrals. Beginning its history back in 1072, the current building began being built in 1192. For a long time after that it was developed continuously.

Lincoln Cathedral was the tallest building in the world for several hundred years, from 1311 to 1548. At that time, it had a tower and spire which gave it an edge over the Pyramids of Giza. When the tower fell, it lost the credit. It was good whilst it lasted!

Inside, the cathedral is absolutely gorgeous – and absolutely massive. You’ll need to set a good amount of time to explore it properly.

The last time I went inside, it was free to visit. I’m gutted to see that now there’s an admission fee (and not a small one at that). Maybe one day I will go back inside, but it probably won’t be anytime soon.

For those of us who need their £12, there’s still plenty to admire at the west end of the cathedral – all the more so since conservation works on the walls ended last year. I particularly like to see the Gallery of Kings above the main door, who all have their legs crossed as though they are ready to have a wee.

Heading down Steep Hill

Once you’ve had a look at the cathedral, which will take a while if you’re going to walk the whole perimeter, you can head back to Castle Hill. Immediately opposite the visitor centre, you’ll see a busy road sloping downwards. That’s the infamous Steep Hill.

As the name suggests, Steep Hill is one of the steepest roads in Britain, and arguably one of the prettiest. It’s cobbled and lined with independent shops and cafes. Walking up and down it takes a fair bit of energy, although one Christmas I found that wearing heels on the upward journey made it so much easier…

This road will take you down to the downhill part of Lincoln, which is now its main commercial centre and contains all the shops that you’ll find in other cities. Steep Hill connects directly to the High Street for easy exploring.

For me, Steep Hill isn’t a road that I’d go on regularly; the walk is knackering, and ultimately if you’re parked uphill, you’ve got to walk back up it anyway. But it is an integral part of any tourist’s experience of the city, and definitely one to do once.

Off to Lincoln Castle

Continuing off the other end of Castle Hill takes you through East Gate, coincidentally, to Lincoln Castle. Unlike the Cathedral, it’s free to enter the Castle grounds, although you’ll need to fork out extra if you want to walk its walls or go into any buildings.

The Castle is also a Norman monument although it looks completely different. As with most castles, there’s an outer wall which you can walk around. A few years ago I did this circuit for the first time; it was a lot of fun going into the little areas on the loop and seeing some of the sights of Lincoln from above.

Inside the walls, the buildings have a more modern look, although they are still quite old! Lincoln Crown Court is an 1820s building covered in ivy, which gives it a look closer to an old country manor rather than a courthouse. Meanwhile, there’s a former prison which housed prisoners under an isolated system, which you can now tour (for a price) on days out at the Castle.

Lincoln Castle is also home to a copy of one of the UK’s most important documents: the Magna Carta. This charter, signed in 1215, required the king of England to act within the law, and some of its principles are still in place today.

Exploring elsewhere

Elsewhere in the Cathedral Quarter, you’ll find quaint streets and alleyways which are more residential in nature and quieter as a result. Of course, being on a hill, some of these are quite steep – for example, whilst I’ve had a good walk up Greenstone Place, I will be reserving that for days where I’m needing a bit of exercise!

I can never resist taking a look down Gordon Road, where my uncle had a shop until my teens.

The best places to eat, drink and stay

If you’re visiting yourself, here are my top recommendations:

• Stay: check out the Tower Hotel, Duke William or the Old Bakery.
• Eat: there are many options. Try Elite on the Bail for fish and chips, Thailand No. 1 for Thai food, or one of the many pubs for pub grub. We like the Cardinal’s Hat at the bottom of Steep Hill for their platters.
• Drink: try Bells Tea Shop on Steep Hill to catch your breath on the way up. One of the many pubs on Bailgate or the surrounding streets will do you fine for a pint or two!

Conclusion

The Cathedral Quarter in uphill Lincoln is always a fun place to visit, especially if you’re into your Roman and mediaeval history. I love looking around and noticing new things each time I’m there.

I hope this little post gives you a feel for what the area is like, and even inspires you to visit yourself.

What is your favourite British city? Let me know in the comments!