Seal-tacular views: walking from Polly Joke to Holywell Bay, Cornwall
The South West Coast Path is known for its stunning scenery, which attracts walkers from across the UK.
In this guide, I’m going to focus on my favourite walk along the South-West Coast Path, from Polly Joke to Holywell Bay. I’ll share some of the highlights of the walk as well as practical information on how to do it yourself.
What is the South West Coast Path?
The South West Coast Path is a walking trail that extends 630 miles along South-West England, following the ebbs and flows of its coastline. It passes through Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset, across rocky outcrops, around hidden coves and through fishing villages.
However, it would be a commitment to walk the whole path in one go, with the average walker taking 7-8 weeks to complete it. That’s why day trips and short walks along it are so popular.
My favourite stretch along the South West Coast Path runs from Newquay to St Agnes, taking in a number of coves, dramatic scenery, wildflower meadows and relics from Cornwall’s mining history. The walk from Polly Joke to Holywell Bay is just one part of this section of the path.
About the walk from Polly Joke to Holywell Bay
Polly Joke and Holywell Bay are two beaches on the northern coast of Cornwall. The walk between them takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on your walking speed and number of breaks.
Polly Joke and Holywell Bay are both beautiful destinations, well-worth a visit on their own. However, I find this stretch of coastline to be quite exciting -, most of all, because of the seals which you can often see. Also, you have no option but to walk to Polly Joke as the nearest car park is around a 15 minute walk away. Why not visit Holywell Bay at the same time?
How difficult is the walk from Holywell Bay to Polly Joke?
Following the coast path between the two beaches is fairly easy. Once you’re on the path, it’s easy to navigate – just follow the broad direction of the coastline and you can’t go wrong!
The walk isn’t too strenuous or long. However, the ground is uneven in many places so I wouldn’t recommend bringing wheelchairs or buggies. Also, from Holywell Bay you will need to go up one steep sand section or over sand dunes. Anyone attempting this walk should be comfortable walking up (or down) over a slope of sand.
How to get to the starting point
This route can be taken either from Polly Joke (walking west) or Holywell Bay (walking east). Both routes are equally spectacular, but I like the view of Holywell Bay in the distance as you come around Kelsey Head. As I most recently completed it in this direction myself, in this guide we walk from Polly Joke.
Both Polly Joke and Holywell Bay are located between Newquay and Perranporth on Cornwall’s north coast, close to the A3075.
Starting from Polly Joke: Park at the National Trust car park in Cubert Common or alternatively at the car parks in West Pentire. Cubert Common places you closer to the paths you’ll need to take, but the car park is so small that I would avoid attempting it during the peak summer season.
Starting from Holywell Bay: a large National Trust car park is located along Holywell Road. Being a popular seaside destination, Holywell Bay’s car park can fill up during the summer holidays, so arrive early.
By the way, 360 Beaches Cornwall has photo directions for this walk, which is a great resource to use in conjunction with this article!
Joining the coast path from Polly Joke
Before setting off, I’d recommend spending some time on Polly Joke beach. It’s best explored at low tide, when there is a greater expanse of sand and the caves are accessible. Make some sandcastles; go on a walk; visit some caves: the beach is your oyster!
Once you’re ready to leave Polly Joke beach, the coastal path can be accessed from the west (left) side at the mouth of the cove. You should be able to see the path quite clearly going up the cliffs, so head on up.
At low tide, you can also walk on the beach to a small cove on the west side of the beach. This is connected to the coast path via a set of steps, so you can walk onto the beach and into this cove to get up onto the South West Coast Path.
Now you’re on the coast path, follow it up and along towards Kelsey Head, the point separating the two coves. You should initially follow Polly Joke’s left side. When you’ve walked a bit further out, turn around to have a look at the beach in the distance. From the coast path, it looks very pretty and does give you a different perspective!
Also keep an eye out for common seals, as they can sometimes be spotted swimming along this section of coast. I’ve even seen them a few times bobbing up and down in the waves at the beach at Polly Joke.
Chick Island
When you reach Kelsey Head, where the coastline turns west, keep an eye out for Chick Island. This should be quite obvious, but is also indicated by a NT sign informing you about the seals which may be present.
Chick Island is a pretty islet jutting from the water. Several sections of rock are visible between the mainland and the island at low tide, and, both times I have visited Kelsey Head, seals were resting here. On my most recent visit in July 2023, we counted 17 seals, including 15 on the rocks and 2 in the water!
Kelsey Head makes a good place to stop and watch the scenery for a while. The seals are often moving around in the water, and as you can get a good view from the coastline, it’s easy to watch their antics. The first time we visited, one seal was attempting to reach a younger seal on the rocks. We became quite invested, watching her jump up the rocks several times and falling into the water, before she managed the jump and they were reunited.
When there aren’t seals present, such as at high tide, you may still be able to see birds around the rocks, with a flock of cormorants also sitting in the swell when we were there. We’ve also seen oystercatchers fly over – they made an absolute racket and you could see the seals were unimpressed!
Just be sure to take care with your footing when viewing the seals. The viewing point is on a steep slope with cliffs below, and it can get quite windy.
Continuing around to Holywell Bay
Keep walking along the coast path as it heads inland.
As you come around Holywell Bay, you’ll first see two pointed islands jutting out of the water in the distance. These are the Gull Rocks. Alongside Holywell Bay’s beach, they’ve featured in a number of films and TV series – most recently, in the Game of Thrones prequel, House of the Dragon.
They remind me of the volcanoes in my favourite Dreamworks short cartoon, Lava. I always can imagine that a flock of mermaids, or a whole new race of people are living there on the far side, hidden away from view.
As you come around and the rocks become more distinguished as two peaks, look to the right flank of the right peak. To me, this looks like a cow, which intrigues me every time (don’t ask me why).
Keep walking along and eventually Holywell Bay itself will come into view. Take a break to enjoy the scenery!
Entering Holywell Bay
Head further around the bay, and you will move from open grassland and heathland to sand dunes, through a gate. This change marks the first moves into Holywell Bay proper, and signals a change in direction.
Here, you have two choices. The first is to continue on the coast path, across the sand dunes. I do not recommend this. The continuous up and downs, trudging over the sand, are pretty knackering. You also have to contend with harsh grasses and the possibility of adders being present.
The second option, which I recommend, is to take the first right once you’re in the dunes. This leads to a steep sand path down to the beach – you should be able to see the footprints of other people taking this option. If you choose to walk from Holywell Bay, this stretch is pretty knackering; it’s much easier to walk down it.
Watch your footing on those first couple of metres, where the path is pretty rocky. The remaining section is mainly sand, however, and you can have a lot of fun here: gallop down the side as you see fit!
Time to relax at Holywell Bay
You’re here! The walk is complete (although see the next section for getting back to your car). However, there is plenty of fun to be had in Holywell Bay (or Polly Joke if you came in the other direction).
My top suggestions are to:
- Take a look in the caves and rock pools (if you’re visiting at low tide);
- Walk the length of the beach and admire the Gull Rocks from a different angle to before; or
- Walk into Holywell to have a drink, either at the Gull Rocks Bar or Treguth Inn.
Returning back to Polly Joke
Once you’ve stocked up, nipped to the loo and had a rest, it’s time to return back to where you came from.
The good news is, you don’t need to go along the coastal path again. Instead, you can cut through the grassland, directly over to Polly Joke.
To do this, you can return behind the dunes. There’s a path which takes you between the dunes and Holywell Bay Golf Club, which you’ll see off Holywell Road. If you look on a map, this path diverts from the South West Coast Path as it heads towards the dunes on the eastern side of the bay.
After around thirty minutes of walking, you’ll arrive at Cubert Common, where it’s ten minutes walk back to Polly Joke or a fifteen minute walk to the car parks in West Pentire.
Back at Polly Joke, you can relax for a bit – then perhaps, onto the next adventure?
Conclusion
The walk between Polly Joke and Holywell Bay is gorgeous and great fun, with opportunities for seal-spotting and cave-exploring on the way. It’s a lovely activity to complement any plans you have in the area or to break up a day of beach-going.
Want to keep walking? Head along the coast path in either direction. Crantock is around 40 minutes’ walk from Polly Joke, whereas walking westward from Holywell Bay will take you to Perranporth; both are lovely destinations in themselves.
Is there anything else you’d like to know about this walk? Let me know in the comments!
