The budget guide to visiting Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is just one of many ancient temples in north-west Cambodia, which form the Angkor Archaeological Park. There is a lot to see and do, and a lot of history to explore. There’s a reason why these ruins are considered one of the wonders of the world!
I visited Angkor whilst backpacking South-East Asia and absolutely loved it; it was the perfect end to my time in Cambodia. After exploring the park, I’ve written this guide to share my experience and help others to plan their trip. It begins with a short history on how Angkor came to be, as I think that’s essential to understanding why the ruins are like they are.
Then there’s practical information to help you plan your trip, such as which temples you MUST visit, how long to spend there, and what routes you can use. It’s focused on a budget mindset, but the truth is that there’s no cheap way of doing Angkor Wat – the entry fees are hefty. Still, it’s a must do for any trip in Cambodia!
A short history to the Khmer empire
First up: an introduction to the construction of the temples, in the context of the Khmer Empire. This part of this article gives you the bare bones of the archaeological park, including why so many temples were built and how they’ve come to be how they are today – the essential information, in my opinion. But feel free to skip this if you’re searching for the practical details.
Before Angkor Wat
In 802, a new state proclaimed independence in Cambodia, forged from the bones of two previous states: the Khmer empire.
In around 900, a new capital for this state was established to the north of present day Siem Reap. This capital, known as Angkor or Yasodharapura, and its surrounding area is what we all visit when we go to Angkor Wat. It’s from this capital that the empire continued to grow and expand into modern day Laos, Vietnam and Thailand.
At its peak, it’s estimated that 1 million people lived in Angkor. For us in the modern era, a city of this size isn’t so big, but at the time this would’ve been the largest city on Earth; certainly, it was one of the biggest cities to have existed until the industrial revolution.
Temple building
Most of the buildings in Angkor and the surrounding area were originally made of wood, which decays away. So now, when visiting, the only things that remain are what was made out of stone (mainly sandstone and laterite). Namely, the temples.
The Angkor civilisation was deeply religious, with Hindu beliefs later giving way to Buddhism as the latter grew in popularity. As such a powerful empire it’s no surprise that its royalty wanted to produce monuments that proved their strength, wisdom and divinity. Hence, successive rulers built new temples, dedicated to the gods and goddesses of their choice.
The temples which you can visit today were built over a period of over three hundred years. It’s incredible to think that Angkor people in the 1200s would have seen the earlier temples such as Banteay Srei and Ta Keo, built in the 900s, in the same way we might view a 18th century palace today!
The foundations of Angkor: water
Looking back at Angkor, you may wonder: what made the Khmer empire so prosperous? I certainly did!
The answer is their management of water, that important resource. Cambodia experiences two distinct seasons. During the monsoon season, there’s a lot of rain; during the dry season, there is not. When your food source, namely rice paddies, is reliant on water, it’s hard to sustain a population when the water isn’t there.
The Khmer people engineered a solution to this problem, building two major reservoirs known as the West and East Barays, which were connected to canals and dykes across the city. This allowed them to irrigate the rice paddies, even during the dry season, and ensure reliable food production for everyone.
Not to mention, canals and other artificial waterways are great for transporting goods over long distances. The perfect way to transport building materials for their masterful architecture projects!
The reservoirs and canals were also used to feed the moats around each temple. I thought this was a purely decorative feature, so I was surprised to learn it was also used in the construction. The dry, sandy soils aren’t good for supporting such heavy stone buildings, but adding water to them makes their foundations much more stable. Aren’t we glad that the Khmer people figured this out?!
Angkor’s peak
Angkor peaked in the 1100s, under Jayavarman VII. During this period the Khmer empire was strong and prosperous – perfect for some temple building!
Jayavarman built a lot of temples. It’s him we have to thank for some of the most well known temples, such as Bayon and Ta Prohm, as well as many others. He certainly left a legacy which continues to this day.
But of course, all good things have to end. Things began to fall into decline in the 1200s, after which there were no more magnificent temples. Apparently the reservoirs which provided so much stability to Angkor were not maintained, making its inhabitants vulnerable to the droughts and flooding which hit particularly hard in the 1400s. Angkor became increasingly exposed to attacks from growing powers such as Ayutthaya in modern-day Thailand, which ultimately ended things in battle in 1431.
Angkor’s abandonment and rediscovery
Angkor was abandoned in the fifteenth century, when it was taken over by jungle and became overgrown. Many of the temples were left alone and became weathered, ruins beneath a thick coating of greenery. However, some of them continued to be used as Buddhist monasteries, with the most well known being Angkor Wat. And of course, the locals always knew they were there.
Angkor Wat was ‘rediscovered’ by French naturalist Henri Mouhot in 1860, when it was shared with and captured the imagination of the Western world. Since then, the jungle has been stripped away around the ruins so that people can visit them again. And so they have!
Of course, much more still remains of Angkor Thom and the surrounding areas than we know, with LiDAR imagery showing a network of roads, ditches and buildings extending away from the uncovered areas. This was an extensive city and what we can see in the modern day just scratches the surface of what once existed here.
Angkor Wat in the present day
Nowadays, the Angkor Archaeological Park is a sprawling area bursting with ruins. Several reservoirs remain, including the West Baray (although it appears to be drying up). The centre of the city, Angkor Thom, still boasts its walls, moat and inner temples. Elsewhere, you can find spectacular temples in varying states of repair – there are 72 major temples in this area alone.
Tourism in Angkor is a major part of Cambodia’s economy, with almost a million visitors in 2024. It’s also significant to the modern-day Khmer identity – even Angkor Wat features on Cambodia’s flag.
But it’d be foolish to think of Angkor as solely a mausoleum to the past. The park contains several villages, and the roads which pass through it are busy. This is a place that, despite holding many signs of ancient Khmer culture, continues to evolve.
My honest thoughts on visiting Angkor Wat
I visited Angkor Wat in November 2023. I stayed in a hostel in Siem Reap and visited Angkor over three days.
The first day, I took a sunrise tour to Angkor Wat, with subsequent visits to Ta Prohm and Bayon. I liked visiting these temples, which are the most famous, with a tour guide who could explain their significance and point out the most important features. But I didn’t get much time in any temple and probably missed a lot.
The second day, I took on the Grand Circuit, an established route that takes you through the temples on the edges of Angkor: Pre Rup, East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Krol Ko and Preah Khan. I did this with a private tuk tuk rented across four people; it meant I had time to leisurely explore all the temples I came across.
The final day, I first visited Banteay Srei, a temple around 15 km north of the main complex, by tuk tuk. I then came back to Angkor to visit the remaining parts of Angkor Thom, such as Baphuon, and finish off the Small Circuit with Ta Keo and Thommanon.
I really enjoyed visiting Angkor. Even though it was towards the end of my time in South East Asia and I’d already seen plenty of ancient temples, I was amazed and impressed by what I saw.
The practical information
The next sections will give you the practical details you need to plan your own trip for visiting Angkor Wat. I’ve used my own experiences and other information to answer the top questions and fill you in a bit more on what it’s like.
Where should you stay to visit Angkor?
When visiting Angkor, most people stay in Siem Reap, Cambodia’s second-largest city. Siem Reap has hundreds of hotels catering to tourists visiting the archaeological park, plus it’s where all the tours depart from and the tuk tuk drivers are based. You can’t actually stay inside Angkor, so this is your best option.
And it’s a good option! Siem Reap is a vibrant city with lots of great food and nightlife. It contrasts against the ancient buildings you’ll see inside the archaeological park, providing a light change of scenery at the end of a long day.
I stayed at Lub D, and I’d recommend it if you plan to stay at a hostel. The dorms are well-structured, with a locker area which is separate to the sleeping area. Others will be excited to see hair dryers and straighteners in the bathroom! They organise a social event every night so there’s always an opportunity to meet other travellers.
How many days should you spend in Angkor?
Most people spend one to three days in Angkor, as these are the timeframes available for the Angkor Pass (which you have to buy to enter the archaeological park). How long you want to spend visiting the ruins is entirely a personal choice.
One day is great for hitting the highlights. You can check out Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, plus a few other temples. It’s a way of saying you’ve been to Angkor Wat, and is probably best if you don’t have long in Cambodia at all.
Two days give you a bit more time to play with. With two days, you can do most of the Small Circuit and Grand Circuit, visiting the most popular temples and ruins. You won’t be able to see everything, and at points it may feel rushed, but you’ll cover the highlights and more.
Three days is a good amount of time if you want to see all the main temples, plus a bit more. It’s also a good amount of time for taking things slow and relaxed, re-visiting any ruins that you want to explore in more detail. I spent three days exploring Angkor personally and found it to be a good amount of time, comprehensive without being overbearing, and I was satisfied with how much I did in this time.
What temples can’t you skip?
The top three temples to visit are Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm and Bayon (in increasing popularity).
Angkor Wat is one of the largest religious monuments in the world and is unskippable, featuring multiple levels with intricate carvings. If you only have time to do one temple, do this one.
Ta Prohm is a sprawling temple which has been covered by jungle over time. You might recognise it as a setting in the Tomb Raider film. It’s really captured tourists’ imaginations and I can understand why.
Bayon is the largest temple in Angkor Thom, a walled royal city built by King Jayavarman VII in the late 1100s. If you’ve got a bit of time, exploring Angkor Thom is worthwhile – but if you only have a bit of time, it’s Bayon you’ve got to see.
What are the ‘Small’ vs ‘Grand’ Circuits?
The Small Circuit and Grand Circuit describe the two main routes that tourists take when visiting the Angkor archaeological park.
The Small Circuit is a circular route which takes you through the inner temples and ruins. These include Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Thommanon and Ta Keo.
The Grand Circuit takes you around the outer temples in Angkor, including Pre Rup, East Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Krol Ko and Preah Khan.
Which direction should you do them in? Most tours go in a clockwise direction. However, I did the Grand Circuit in an anticlockwise direction; our driver advised us to begin with the temple mountains (East Mebon and Pre Rup) as these have the least shade compared to the single-level temples. This worked well and kept the crowds down too.
Should you take a tour to visit Angkor Wat?
There are several ways to get around Angkor, including by taking a group or private tour, hiring a tuk tuk, or renting your own vehicle.
You’ll find dozens of tour agencies offering group tours to Angkor Wat. These will take you around on a bus or minibus to visit the top sights on a set route. The guide will normally escort you around the ruins, showing you the most important features and giving you an insight into the history behind it – perfect for introducing you to the archaeological park.
However, a group tour means you haven’t got as much time to explore, as you’re on set timescales and can’t wander too far away from the guide. And you can’t just go visit a temple if you want to, so you might skip the smaller ruins.
It’s personal opinion as to what you prefer. I personally took a tour for my first day and tuk tuk for the second and third days, which worked well.
How can you organise a tuk tuk to explore Angkor?
An alternative to taking a tour is to hire a tuk tuk for the day. This is what I did for two of my three days exploring Angkor. Having a tuk tuk means you’re free to visit whichever temples you want and spend as much time as you want at each; but of course you don’t have the same level of information as you might get on a tour.
There are plenty of tuk tuks waiting around for tourists in Siem Reap, and I took one waiting outside the hostel – Mr Batman. It was a gamble but it paid off; he gave us a fair price, was friendly and reliable, and gave us information about each temple before we went in. I’d definitely recommend him.
Many drivers are on Tripadvisor and other sites which make it easy for you to check them out in advance. Most hotels and guesthouses in Siem Reap will help you to organise one when you’re there too.
How much does it cost to visit Angkor Wat?
There are a couple of costs to be aware of when visiting Angkor Wat:
- The entry fee. To enter the archaeological complex you need to buy the Angkor Pass, which doesn’t come in cheap (at $37 / £27 for one day, $62 / £46 for two and $72 / £53 for three).
- Transport costs. You’ll need to budget around $15 (£11) per person per day for a group tour, or $20 (£15) per day for a tuk tuk (which can be shared over 4-5 people).
Assuming you take a tuk tuk between two over three days, you’re looking at $102 (£75) per person alone – without budgeting hotels, food or getting to Siem Reap. It adds up!
There’s no denying it – exploring Angkor is expensive, even if you go at it from a budget perspective. But I’d still say it’s worth it, to visit such an interesting place.
Tips
Here are my top tips for a visit to the ruins at Angkor:
- Bring modest clothes. Many of the temples contain Buddhist shrines, and they remain a place of worship. Be respectful by keeping your shoulders and knees covered.
- Visit the temples early. Cambodia is hot, and exploring temples can be a tiring business. Get as much time as you can in early, so you don’t roast in the midday sun.
- Read up on the temples. I’d recommend having a look at the history of the temples and other buildings beforehand, so you know what to look out for. Alternatively, bring a guide book with you to help you decipher the temples once you’ve arrived.
Conclusion
Angkor is an amazing place to visit. The 900-year-old remains of this city have stood the test of time and are still telling their stories. After visiting, I completely understand why so many tourists visit the Angkor Archaeological Park; it really is a wonder.
Exploring Angkor is not cheap, which poses a challenge for backpackers and other people on a budget. However, ultimately it’s something that you have to do whilst visiting Cambodia.
Do you have any questions about visiting Angkor Wat? Let me know in the comments.
