Argentina is home to jungle waterfalls, high desert, wine valleys and glaciers all within its borders, covering some 2,300 miles from the subtropics to the edge of Antarctica. It also includes domestic flights, not buses, for trips less than a month. The following ten stops represent the range.
The Capital
1. Buenos Aires
European-inspired architecture, but with an Argentine flavor. Recoleta Cemetery, the book shop in the converted theatre of the Ateneo, the Sunday antiques market in San Telmo and the painted streets of La Boca. Wait at least 3 days and try late eating (dinner is not served before 9pm).
The Subtropical Northeast
2. Iguazú Falls
Nearly 275 separate falls are dispersed over an area of almost 2 miles along the Brazilian border. The Argentine side has walkways which take you right above the Devil’s Throat, the Brazilian side the panorama. Do both if you can.
3. Esteros del Iberá
One of the world’s largest wetlands, and Argentina’s “Pantanal”. Capybaras, caimans and marsh deer abound and jaguars have been reintroduced via rewilding. Far quieter than Iguazú, four hours away.
The Andean Northwest
4. The valley of Humayun is located in Salta.Humayun is in Salta.
Colonial Salta is the center of a strip of rock formations, highlands full of cacti and Andean villages. The best things are the Hill of Seven Colours at Purmamarca and the salt flats of Salinas Grandes.
5. Cafayate
Three hours to the south of Salta, high altitude wine town, where the crisp Torrontés whites are famous. The road to there goes through the red sandstone canyons of the Quebrada de las Conchas.
Wine Country
6. Mendoza
At the heart of Argentine Malbec, hundreds of bodegas are found under the Andes. Go for a bicycle tour or a drive between vineyards of Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley. Its neighbour is Aconcagua, the highest peak outside Asia.
Patagonia
7. The towns of Bariloche and the Lake District are located there.
Chalets in the alpine style, glacial lakes and chocolate shops along the main street. One of the best drives in the country is the Seven Lakes Road north up to San Martín de los Andes.
8. El Chaltén
At the base of Monte Fitz Roy, Argentina’s “trekking capital. There are trails to Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre which leave town and do not require a transport or guide.
9. Perito Moreno Glacier
One of the few glacial advances of all time near El Calafate. This is artillery ice. It is directly in front of the boardwalks and ice trekking is offered.
10. Península Valdés
Wildlife peninsula with southern right whales (June to December) and elephant seals, sea lions and Magellanic penguins.
Planning Notes
Seasons Are Inverted
The season in Patagonia is from November to March. The best times to visit the northwest are from April to June and September to November. Buenos Aires is a pleasant place to be in spring and autumn, a humid place in January.
Distances Are Enormous
The flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate takes 3 hours. The long-distance bus service is great and comfortable, but time consuming. Purchase domestic tickets in advance, as they tend to be expensive and high in demand.
Money and Payments
In recent years the rules of the Argentine currency and payments have evolved several times, with changes in exchange rates, surcharges on cards and tourist refunds. Always refer to the latest guidance, not previous advice.
Eat and Drink Well
The national institution is asado (steak) at an ideal parrilla. Include empanadas, Malbec from Mendoza and dulce de leche in all.
Choose two areas to visit initially. Three means you’ll use it in airports.